4artandadventure

Monthly Archives

September 2016

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 9: Tito’s Partisan Cemetery of Mostar (3 of 3)

    September 30, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  Finally we get to the entrance of the Tito Partisan Cemetery of Mostar. It is completely overrun by vegetation, littered with broken glass and covered with pro-fascist and Nazi graffiti. I stop for what I plan to be my first sketch. Mike goes on to take photographs. Eventually he

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 8: Tito’s Partisan Cemetery of Mostar (2 of 3)

    September 28, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  After doing as much research as we can online, we finally get an address and a little information about Tito’s Partisan Cemetery. It was opened in 1964 by Tito himself. It suffered considerable damage during the 1992-95 war and fell into a state of disrepair afterwards. It was cleaned up and restored in 2005 and

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 7: Tito’s Partisan Cemetery of Mostar (1 of 3)

    September 26, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  Among dozens of quick stops during his tour (the kind where nobody gets off the bus) Bata pulls on the sidewalk and points to an unattractive area on the other side of the street. Honestly it doesn’t look like much at all and besides I am still trying to take in the story of

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 6: Bata (3 of 3)

    September 16, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  After the waterfalls, the pace eases a little. He remains a torrent of information and personal stories but he includes sites and topics that are not directly related to the war. This drive takes us to Pocitelj, a beautiful 15th Century village built in a steep rocky natural

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 5: Bata (2 of 3)

    September 14, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  Our introduction into the harsh reality of Mostar is immediate. I might even call it abrupt! The highway we used so innocently the day before, turns out to mark a division between two territories. East for Bosniaks, West for Croats. Bata took the time to make sure we understood that both are Bosnians. The Croat side is rich; fewer ruins;

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 4: Bata (1 of 3)

    September 9, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  As I am sitting there, enjoying my conversation with a dozen of Majda’s Youth Hostel guests, I am reminded of my trip around the world when I too was 20. Suddenly I hear a loud gregarious voice outside “BACKPACKERS LET’S GO C’M’ON TAKE YOUR STUFF LET’S GO HA HA HA.” I waited three months, flew from

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 3: Majda

    September 8, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience. I’m sitting on a patio, in the midst of beautiful flowers, having great conversations with a group of 30 year olds while enjoying a delicious breakfast. I am in awe: I AM IN MOSTAR! On April 25 my friend Jane said go to Mostar, find Majda and her brother Bata: they give a ten-hour tour on what really happened

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 2: Coffee in the midst of destruction

    September 6, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  After passing not one but many hollow villages in the Bosnian countryside, intertwined with ones that are half rebuilt but still giving the impression of being stuck in time, we stop. We need a break. I want to say: a break from being a part of

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    Adventures, World Peace - Part 1

    Bosnia, Part 1: Understanding The Clues

    September 2, 2016,

    La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience.  This morning, we just crossed the border from Croatia into Bosnia. Things are different here. I notice abandoned houses here and there. Churches too. When I am traveling, I’m always looking for cues, trying to understand what happened AND what’s going on now. Really going on now, not the story I’m fed. After about fifty houses, I realize they invariably have four thick stone walls still standing, but