Adventures World Peace - Part 1

Bosnia, Part 8: Tito’s Partisan Cemetery of Mostar (2 of 3)

September 28, 2016,

La version française est en cours de traduction. Merci de votre patience. 

After doing as much research as we can online, we finally get an address and a little information about Tito’s Partisan Cemetery. It was opened in 1964 by Tito himself. It suffered considerable damage during the 1992-95 war and fell into a state of disrepair afterwards. It was cleaned up and restored in 2005 and proclaimed a National Monument of Bosnia i Herzegovina in 2006. It has recently been abandoned again and today is a victim of abject vandalism, graffiti and litter.

Nowadays nobody goes there.

Except Mike and Dionne!

We walk along the bottom of the big hill topped with a gigantic white cross. Ever since I arrived in Mostar, this cross has given me an uneasy feeling. It feels oppressive. Besides I don’t understand what is it doing looming above what is supposed to be a mostly Muslim city? Granted it stands on the Croats’ side of the divide.

As we get closer to our destination, we start feeling vaguely uneasy; although I can’t quite put my finger on it, I know we have entered another world. We are parched and I decide to sit at a one-table terrace bar we come across. Mike doesn’t like it. Pretending to need the facilities, he goes inside. He comes back and says quietly, almost a whisper, drink your tea and let’s go; now. Of all the men inside the very dark room filling racing sheets, not one looked up to say hello – an extremely unusual thing in Bosnia! There is palpable tension. It is very obvious the server has never served before in his life, this bar is just a front. I doubt any tourist has ever stopped here. We must have startled them.

We still have a few blocks to go. Everything around us has changed. The atmosphere is heavy. Men stand outside their shops and watch us suspiciously; we are not welcome here. Our smiles and “dobr’ dan” no longer break the ice. It’s a warning…

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