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Dionne Haroutunian

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Dionne Haroutunian

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Pakistan: a doctor among us! (English version after the French)

October 10, 2018 Dionne Haroutunian
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Improvised roadside hospital

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A happy customer

Apparenty getting his wife to the doctors took some convincing!Apparemment convaincre sa femme d’aller voir le docteur n’était pas si facile!!

Apparenty getting his wife to the doctors took some convincing!

Apparemment convaincre sa femme d’aller voir le docteur n’était pas si facile!!

Sandro touche à son rêve secret: devenir fermier au PakistanSandro finally gets to touch his lifelong hidden dream: be a farmer in Pakistan

Sandro touche à son rêve secret: devenir fermier au Pakistan

Sandro finally gets to touch his lifelong hidden dream: be a farmer in Pakistan

Sunny au lever de soleil. On s’etait mis en route à 6h du matin pour éviter le trafic abominable d’Abbotabad mais le plan est tombé à l’eau une fois que je me suis fichu par-terre avec ma moto!Sunny at sunrise. We left Moin’s parents’ house in Murre…

Sunny au lever de soleil. On s’etait mis en route à 6h du matin pour éviter le trafic abominable d’Abbotabad mais le plan est tombé à l’eau une fois que je me suis fichu par-terre avec ma moto!

Sunny at sunrise. We left Moin’s parents’ house in Murree at 6AM so as to avoid the horrible traffic of Abbotabad but that plan fell apart once I hit the pavement tangled up with my bike!!

——-

Many of my friends have told me how lucky I am to travel with my own doctor. I always laughed it off — until Mike had to invent a roadside hospital three times for me during our 2016 trip. Yeah I thought to myself, it IS convenient when you’re accident prone!

The thing is, people can sniff a doctor a mile away.

On day 1, I had a superb crash outside Abbotabad! After warning my family a million times about the dangerous road ahead (a memory from last year), I myself suddenly get hit by a surge of extreme happiness to be back in Pakistan and pass them all at high speed ... only to be surprised by a tight turn to the right. I hit the front brake and go down, sliding some 50 ft+. I remember bouncing up and landing on my chest, crushing arm and rib cage in the process. I am in enormous pain ... and very happy to see Mike bend down to ask me questions, even if I can’t answer at that moment. It sure is reassuring ... my own doctor! Sandro and Mike grab a side of my coat each and slide me off the road ... it was so slick that it was really easy to do so. Our support vehicle arrives shortly, Rajoo jumps out and goes “Dany (my Pakistani name: Dany Khan) Dany - okay?” To this day I have no idea how he knows. I am standing up and walking when he sees me. But he knows. He is already zipping his coat up and grabbing my helmet. I join Cathy in the car for the rest of the day: a real silver lining because being with Cathy is exquisite, as usual.

We stopped for gas a little later and as I am taking stock of my wounds and the state of my equipment, I notice that I slid on my unprotected wrist and have a dirty open wound. I am just incredibly lucky that I was wearing heavy duty gloves (sadly without gauntlets) because when I look at the hard plastic knuckle protection, they’re chewed up pretty badly. Under the eyes of many, Mike washes the wound with soap and water, and bandages it properly. Before he is done, an old man takes a number and waits in line! He had a shot a month ago and has developed a sterile abscess on his upper arm. He is worried. Mike teaches him some massaging technique and assures him he will be fine after a few days.

A couple of weeks later, as Moin, Mike and I are traveling towards Afghanistan on our own, we stop in a tiny village and out of nowhere comes a man pushing his wife ahead of him towards Mike. We suspect that a villager guessed Mike’s profession when he saw him spend twenty minutes in the local pharmacy (a 100sf true goldmine by the way!) and announced his arrival! Once again, Mike was able to reassure her and give her instructions on how to proceed. It included going to the pharmacy in question and seeing the doctor, the pharmacist’s son, who is there every evening after work, to help people in his village.

Then of course in addition to the masses, there are all of us, Mike’s friends and family! Moin and his knee; as well as Nairi, An and I when we took very ill after a dinner. 

Mes amis me répètent souvent à quel point j’ai de la chance de voyager avec mon propre médecin. Ca m’a toujours fait rire - jusqu'à ce que Mike ait dû inventer un hôpital en bordure de route trois fois pour moi lors de notre voyage en 2016. Ouais, je me suis dit, c’est quand même pratique quand on est sujet aux accidents!

Le fait est que les gens peuvent renifler un médecin à un kilomètre.

Le premier jour au Pakistan, j'ai eu un superbe accident! Après avoir passé une heure à expliquer à ma famille que la route serait extrêmement dangereuse le lendemain, (un souvenir de l'année dernière), le lendemain en question, je suis soudainement prise par un élan de bonheur extrême d’être à nouveau au Pakistan et je les dépasser tous à grande vitesse ... suivi par un virage serré à droite! J'ai sauté sur le frein avant et avant de pouvoir dire “ouf”, je suis partie en glissade avec ma bécane sur une vingtaine de mètres. Je me souviens avoir bondi et atterri sur le ventre, en écrasant bras et cage thoracique. Je souffre énormément ... et je suis très heureuse de voir Mike se pencher sur moi pour me poser des questions, même si je ne peux pas répondre à ce moment-là. C'est rassurant, mon propre médecin! Sandro et Mike attrapent chacun un côté de mon manteau et me tirent sur le côté de la route ... c'était tellement glissant qu’ils n’ont eu aucune difficulté! Notre véhicule de soutien arrive sur ces faits, Rajoo saute à terre et dit «Dany (mon nom pakistanais: Dany Khan) Dany - ça va?» À ce jour, je ne comprends pas comment il sait. Quand il me voit, je suis debout et je marche! Mais il sait. Il ferme déjà son manteau et attrape mon casque. Je rejoins Cathy dans la voiture pour le reste de la journée: un point positif de mon accident car c’est exquis de passer un moment avec Cathy, comme d’habitude.

Un peu plus loin, nous nous sommes arrêtés pour faire le plein d'essence et alors que je fais le bilan de mes blessures et de l'état de mon équipement, je remarque que j’ai glissé sur mon poignet non protégé et que j’ai une plaie ouverte sale. Ma chance incroyable c’est que je portais des gants très résistants (malheureusement sans protection des poignets), car lorsque je regarde la protection en plastique dur des articulations, il leur manque trois bons millimètres. Sous le regard intéressé de plusieurs personnes, Mike lave la plaie avec eau et savon, et la bande correctement. Avant qu'il ait terminé, un vieil homme prend un numéro et attend son tour! On lui a fait un vaccin il y a un mois et il a développé un abcès au bras. Il est inquiet. Mike lui apprend une technique de massage et l’assure qu'il ira bien au bout de quelques jours.

Quelques semaines plus tard, alors que Moin, Mike et moi voyageons seuls vers l'Afghanistan, nous nous arrêtons dans un petit village et de nulle part surgit un homme poussant sa femme devant lui en direction de Mike. Nous soupçonnons qu’un villageois a deviné le métier de Mike quand il l’a vu passer 20 minutes dans la pharmacie locale (une véritable mine d’or de 8m2!) et a annoncé son arrivée. Encore une fois, Mike peut la rassurer et lui donner des instructions sur la façon de procéder. Il s’agit notamment d’aller à la pharmacie en question et de voir le médecin, le fils du pharmacien, qui se rend là-bas tous les soirs après le travail pour venir en aide aux habitants de son village.

Et bien sur, il y a aussi les amis et la famille — comme Moin et son genou; Nairi, An et moi lorsque nous sommes tombés super malade après un repas; et d’autres encore ...

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In Pakistan
← Pakistan: Polo anybody?Pakistan: Guiding Principles Part 1: Re-union →

ABOUT

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An active member of the Seattle arts community, Dionne works out of her BallardWorks studio in Seattle. You can often meet her and discuss her artwork and travels during the monthly Ballard ARTwalk. That is … if she is not adventuring somewhere else on that day! She discovered printmaking at the Pratt Fine Art Center in Seattle where she started taking classes in 1989. “I completely fell in love and my passion for this medium has remained unchanged through the years. I work much like a painter, combining many print techniques – silkscreen, etching, monotype, woodblock, collagraph and others to create one-of-a-kind prints (monoprints). 

Dionne’s motorcycle forays are one of the  sources of inspiration behind her artwork and writing. Riding a motorcycle is a remarkable mode of travel because it removes the separation between environment and self. “When I ride, I experience the landscape through my senses, instead of simply observing it from a distance.” Another critical aspect of motorcycling is that the probability for chance meetings and unexpected discoveries is increased; people gravitate toward motorcyclists and strike up conversations. “These fortuitous exchanges contribute to my overall sense of connection in the world.” 

 

ARCHIVE

  • 2020
    • May 20, 2020 TURKEY: a little side trip before Part 5
    • Apr 27, 2020 TURKEY: Facing my worse demon, Part 4 of 5
    • Apr 24, 2020 TURKEY: Facing my worse demon, Part 3 of 5
    • Apr 20, 2020 TURKEY: Facing my worst demon, Part 2 of 5
    • Apr 15, 2020 TURKEY: Facing my worst demon, Part 1 of 5
  • 2018
    • Dec 29, 2018 MOROCCO: Fishing for fog nets!
    • Dec 28, 2018 MOROCCO: When life provides before you even ask
    • Dec 27, 2018 MOROCCO: Hmmm ... should we relocate to Imelghas?
    • Dec 27, 2018 MOROCCO: Our most evolved business deal to date
    • Dec 21, 2018 MOROCCO: The Power of a Name
    • Dec 16, 2018 MOROCCO: humble beginnings
    • Nov 25, 2018 España: a few quick highlights!
    • Nov 25, 2018 España: If old walls could talk ...
    • Nov 25, 2018 España: A trip to the emergency!
    • Nov 25, 2018 España: Thoughts on Spain
    • Nov 25, 2018 España: Juan, the Man of Catalonia
    • Oct 29, 2018 Pakistan: Yet another flat tire
    • Oct 29, 2018 In Little Karim’s foot steps
    • Oct 29, 2018 Pakistan: Moin kept his promise (no surprise!)
    • Oct 29, 2018 Pakistan: My one regret about my trip to Pakistan
    • Oct 13, 2018 Pakistan: Shop at Bashir’s — he’s got it all!
    • Oct 12, 2018 Pakistan: Polo anybody?
    • Oct 10, 2018 Pakistan: a doctor among us! (English version after the French)
    • Oct 10, 2018 Pakistan: Guiding Principles Part 1: Re-union
    • Sep 13, 2018 World peace in the family ...
    • Sep 13, 2018 A Swiss holiday for Armenian celebrations
    • Sep 1, 2018 KLIMT and HUNDERTWASSER -- an immersive exhibit
    • Aug 30, 2018 Luggage: Why four 50lb suitcases for a motorcycle journey?
    • May 2, 2018 WELCOME!
    • Feb 25, 2018 SEQUIM
  • 2017
    • Sep 17, 2017 PAKISTAN (PROLOGUE)
  • 2016
    • Oct 14, 2016 MONTENEGRO, PART 2: MEETING THE PRODIGY CHILD
    • Oct 12, 2016 MONTENEGRO, PART 1: MEETING THE PRODIGY CHILD
    • Oct 8, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 10: INDEFATIGABLE JASMINE
    • Sep 30, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 9: TITO’S PARTISAN CEMETERY OF MOSTAR (3 OF 3)
    • Sep 28, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 8: TITO’S PARTISAN CEMETERY OF MOSTAR (2 OF 3)
    • Sep 26, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 7: TITO’S PARTISAN CEMETERY OF MOSTAR (1 OF 3)
    • Sep 16, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 6: BATA (3 OF 3)
    • Sep 14, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 5: BATA (2 OF 3)
    • Sep 9, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 4: BATA (1 OF 3)
    • Sep 8, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 3: MAJDA
    • Sep 6, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 2: COFFEE IN THE MIDST OF DESTRUCTION
    • Sep 2, 2016 BOSNIA, PART 1: UNDERSTANDING THE CLUES
    • Aug 26, 2016 CROATIA, PART 3: A SPECIAL MEETING (PART 3/3)
    • Aug 23, 2016 CROATIA, PART 4: AN INTENSE EXPERIENCE
    • Aug 16, 2016 CROATIA, PART 5: FOLLOWING CROATIA’S ADRIATIC COASTLINE
    • Aug 15, 2016 AUSTRIA, PART 3 – VON DIE FRAU PÖLTZLBAUER KOMMT INSPIRAZION!
    • Apr 14, 2016 MY INDIEGOGO CAMPAIGN
 

CONTACT

Dionne Haroutunian

2856 N.W. Market Street

Seattle WA 98107

4ArtandAdventure@gmail.com

 

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